Coast, caves, wine and food – Welcome to Margaret River.
I really should get back to Bordeaux, but before I do, one last post from Margaret River. Below is a far from exhaustive list of places to visit, stay eat and taste in case my previous posts have inspired you to go visit. We didn’t stay nearly long enough to explore everything, but hopefully it’s a pretty good starting place.
I’m not the only one to be seduced by the region, this year (2023), they welcomed over 1.5 million visitors, international visitors represent just 10%, it’s never been more accessible thanks to direct flights to Busselton Airport from both Melbourne and Sydney. We flew internationally into Perth, about a 3-hour very easy drive away
Where to stay?
We stayed a few nights in the heart of Perth at the beautiful COMO The Treasury, in the renovated, historical state buildings of the city with fabulous restaurants and a stone’s throw from the buzzing water front. And I do love a hotel room with a yoga mat!
Coast or Vineyards?
We stayed overnight at Busselton, keen to see the famous jetty that Edward wanted to swim off – despite the proximity of sharks that we discovered later. Also go for the Foreshore Sunday morning market. We stayed in the HiltonGarden Inn, easy practical and central.
The spectacular Busselton Pier
In Dunsbourough Opting for self-catering, we choose Whitesands cottages, across a quiet road from the beach at Dunsborough, which was perfect. Run by Private Properties, who have some absolutely gorgeous properties on their books. The Empire spa and retreat was also recommended to us.
The iconic Margaret River hotel, built in the 1930s in the centre of town, is currently being renovated by the Heytesbury group, owners of Vasse Felix and opening soon. Given the hospitality we received at the winery, this promises to be a great and central location with walking distance to lots of restaurants.
Some vineyards offer accommodation, I was very tempted by the Guest houses at Cherubino,but it seemed a little excessive for just two of us. I’ll go with a group of friends next time if anyone’s keen to join?
Where to eat
In Busselton Inara is a great middle eastern restaurant with an impressive local wine list and lots of veggie options that match perfectly with the wine list, a subject close to my heart (see Wineand2veg). We arrived just before lunch, perfect timing to sample the food at The Goose. Right on the waterfront with amazing pizza, lots of sharing options and wood grilled specialities. They also serve a delicious breakfast and a great take out menu for eating on the beach. The Shelter Brewery and kitchen is another casual dining venue near the water, offering casual dining and a very lively atmosphere to accompany the wide range of beer brewed on site. They also open early for coffee and bagels.
In Dunsborough Blue Manna was probably our favourite in town, an amazingly warm welcome and a delicious and original take on fresh local seafood and so much more.
Steak with Sake and Herring – those are polenta chips – divine!
Yarri, owned by Snake and Herring winery with a great selection of their own wines of course and many others as well as an impressive cocktail list. Indoor/outdoor dining and a menu based on locally sourced fresh produce – mostly from their own organic garden. And they have Sauternes on their wine list.
Lady Lola was also on our list but we just didn’t make it but we did call into The Pour House for a drink and the ice cream from Elski Danish Ice creamery is worth saving space for.
Personally recommended by Edward
If you are self-catering like us the pies from theDunsborough Bakerymet with Edward’s approval especially after a day’s tasting and the deli Peko Peko offers so much more than just sushi.
Breakfast at the Margaret River Bakery
Breakfast is definitely worth getting up for here, who doesn’t love a little people watching in the mornings? The choice of venues seemed endless, Margaret River Bakery offers a delicious selection of eat in and take out options including their cinnamon rolls, but don’t stop there. They’re at the Margaret River farmers market on the last Saturday of every month if you can work that into your itinerary. If you prefer a beach breakfast go to the White Elephant Café at Gnarabup, they are also open for lunch. Back in Dunsborough La Lah won the vote for best breakfast.
and at La Lah
Wine Lunch So many wineries have delicious food offerings. Vasse Felix and Frui Momento (the Cherubino restaurant – look out for the ‘chick on a stick‘ sculpture, as she is known to locals) have restaurants, with exceptional food, that they will happily pair with their wines for you, brilliant service and beautiful locations.
As beautiful as it was tasty – inch at Frui Memento
Sadly, we didn’t get the timing right to eat at Leeuwin Estate,Cullen,Xanadu nor Voyagerbut all have restaurants that also come highly recommended. Next time!
Yet other wineries offer great platters for more casual dining or just to accompany a wine selection. Enjoy outside in their beautiful grounds such as Lenton Brae and Domaine Naturaliste. The white wines of Domaine Naturaliste were simply stunning.
Brewery bitesWineries don’t have the monopoly of good food, The Wild Hop Brewery in Yallingup has a great beer garden and spacious restaurant to enjoy their range of beers and food and the Black Brewing Co has a great menu served in their restaurant and terrace overlooking the lake.
Lunch with a view over te lake at the Black Brewing Co1
Wineries to visit
The wineries mentioned in previous posts should absolutely be on your list include Vasse Felix, with the spectacular underground cellar, Cullen Wines and their biodynamic garden and restaurant (see below), Lenton Brae all on Caves road. Don’t forget to call in on Jo Perry at Dormilona on the outskirts of down town Margaret River.
A warm welcome at Lenton Brae
Leeuwin offers brilliant tastings and go downstairs to visit the private collection of the original works of Australian artists featured on the labels of their Art Series wines.
Some of the Art Series, with the originals on display in the gallery on site
Cheribino is the perfect venue to taste wines made from fruit harvested across Western Australia for an deeper understanding of the larger region.
In the atmospheric cellars of Vasse Felix
Bruce Dukes’ name came up so often in different wineries where he has worked, we had to visit his own vineyard, Domaine Naturaliste. The tasting room and gardens are as gorgeous as his wines. I found the whites in particular to be stunning. He has experience across WA but also in California where he gained a Master’s Degree in Viticulture and Oenology as well as working for Francis Ford Coppola.
The perfect place for a picnic – the gardens of Domaine Naturalist
One of the Margaret River’s Cellar door heroes, Sam Bradley offers a very warm welcome at Xanadu. Another property created by a doctor and named after the poetic paradise; you’ll pick up the reference to dragons. Choose from a range of tastings and don’t miss the cellar visit or restaurant.
Edward making himself at home at Xanadu
Off the beaten track A little off the beaten track in North Jindong, but well worth searching out is After Hours, where Warwick Mathews also makes his 9 to 5 range, created when he finally started making wine full time. Make sure you taste his Gingdong gins too.
Gindong Gin from After Hours
Further south, try and track down Margaret River icon Stuart Pym, Winemaker & owner of Flowstone Wines . You will not be disappointed by his wines or his depth of knowledge (and stories) of the region after 30 years making wine here. Flowstone is inspired by the local caves (see below) just like the geological formations, his wines symbolize the elements of the terroir really bringing a unique sense of place.
Tasting with Stuart Pym at Flowstone
What else?
If you want to walk off the calories, attempt the 135 km Cape to Cape Track, especially if you are there in the spring for the wild flower display. If you don’t want to put in the miles at least visit the two light houses at either end with the breath-taking views.
Mammouth Cave
For an in depth understanding of the terroir, literally, visit the caves that give their name to the road where many of the top wineries are found. There are over 100 limestone caves that date back over a million years running under the Leeuwin Naturaliste Ridge. They are open to the public for self-guided tours. Lake Cave has a permanent lake to admire, Mammoth Cave is enormous and there’s also Jewel Cave and Ngilgi Cave.
How to visit
I can’t recommend Margaret River Discovery Tour enough, billed as ‘The ultimate wine adventure experience’ it didn’t disappoint. Sean Blockside took me totally out of my comfort zone and into the wilds, and then back into the more familiar world of wine.
In good hands
Souvenirs
Wine obviously, but foodies should also pick up some local handmade chocolate from the Margaret River Chocolate Factory. I also really enjoyed the chocolate from Bahen & Co. Their bean to bar chocolate is made in Margaret River by ex-wine makers Jacqui and Josh Bahen, from cocoa sourced directly from growers around the world. Inspired by vintage chocolate making equipment, they turned their hands to a different type of fermentation and blending. The whole range is delicious, we discovered it at Clairault Strieker where we tasted some of their chocolate specifically blended to go with their wines. They also have a great Vineyard Kitchen Restaurant. So many restaurants so little time….
On a lighter note, bring home some of the Vasse Virgin olive oil cosmetics. Louis and Edwina Scherini started making olive oil soap for their children’s sensitive skin, the range now includes moisturizing lotions, skin balms, massage oils and much more available in their shop on Margaret River’s main street.
For more information visit the Margaret River Region website. They are never short of ideas. Bon voyage.
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